- Frame out your countertop in two layers of 3/4-inch particleboard, glued together and screwed together from underneath. Frame the front edge in 1 1/2x3/4 strips of particleboard. Make sure the surface is completely straight and square at the corners, and that you've cut out the right sized hole for your sink. Use 1x4 particleboard strips around the edges for mounting your top on the cabinets. If the countertop turns a corner, support the center with another 1x4 strip. Set the countertop frame onto the cabinets, mounting to the cabinets from underneath with screws and brackets.
- Measure each span of the countertop for the size of laminate you'll need. Use your jigsaw to cut pieces of laminate an inch larger all around on each span (except the sides facing walls). Starting with the front vertical strip, spread liquid contact cement on the back of the laminate and on the countertop. Let it air-dry as directed on the packaging. The cement won't feel sticky, but the cemented surfaces will bond instantly with each other when they touch. Carefully set the front vertical strip of laminate in place, press it to the particleboard, then use a roller to press it out all along the surface. Use a router with laminate bit to trim off the overhanging laminate along the edges.
- The main span of laminate should be laid after the front piece. To make sure it's properly positioned before the contact cement grips, lay 1-inch dowel rods along the countertop surface every foot. Lay the top piece of laminate over the rods and get it into position. Slide out the rods one by one while pressing down the laminate. Roll it all out with your roller and trim off the excess as before. Rout out the sink hole. Proceed to laminate the backsplash. Once it's all laminated, go over all the edges with a steel file, hand-filing the edges downward at a 45-degree angle.
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